Photos to follow...
With great intentions we got up at a reasonable time and had brekky, but our initial plans to visit the Vatican were re-laid when we realised it was Sunday and the Vatican would probably have mass on, and we met up with some Canadian girls who were heading to a market. We tagged along. The market stretched in three or four directions and had assorted junk, clothes, a small collection of electronic gadgets and more clothes. It was fairly unremarkable except for the €1 scarf Keeley procured, which she is very excited about. This used up a fair bit of time even though we just browsed because the market was so big, so we had lunch back at the hostel then headed to the Colosseum. The size of the thing is incredible, and can't be fully described in pictures. It is amazing to think it was built in only eight years. We got conned into having some photos taken with an ancient Roman guard for a couple of euro, then joined a tour group. It was pricey at €20, but did get us admission and a very entertaining (if eccentric) tour guide. He explained to us the seating requirements of the Flavian Ampitheatre (its proper name) – four tiers of seating for a total of 55,000. The richest were on the bottom, closest to the action. Nobles were on level 1, peasant men on level 2 and peasant women on the top level. Each group was divided into 20 sections, and each section entered via a different gate around the perimeter of the Colosseum. Interestingly, it isn't any inherent fault in the construction of the Colosseum that has left it in ruins – it was 'farmed' by the Christians for its marble and iron (the blocks each had iron locator rods embedded in them to ensure the walls were vertical) because they didn't respect it (being a relic of the Pagan empire). This has left holes in the walls everywhere where the people chiselled out the iron rods. Our guide also explained that the red brick ruins outside the Colosseum were used by prostitutes because of the huge crowds (and therefore potential clientele) exiting at sunset. There is a piece of graffiti carved into the wall of a large erect penis pointing at these rooms to 'show their meaning'. We're a bit sceptical and think that it was probably a prank by some teenagers, but you can decide…
The guide explained the procedure for a day at the Colosseum would generally have some professional gladiator fights; they were more like sports stars than prisoners as seen in the movies – they got paid 20,000 imperial coins when the average family could live comfortably for a year for 500 coins. They would attend an academy for a year, the best would be sent to the Colosseum to 'perform'. Fights were never to the death (because the gladiators were so valuable) except for the occasional lion that would be kept underground for up to 72 hours then released into the bright sunlight. This made it easy work for the 'brave' gladiator to pick off the lion. The staff of around 500 would use the 100 or so lifts around the stadium to move props, animals and gladiators up to the stage and back down to the labyrinth of tunnels and rooms below. There would be several breaks during the day to allow this to happen (and the sand to be cleaned up from the blood and guts) during which the people would get a free meal (bread and water or wine). It was an all-day event and this could happen with the assistance of a giant canvas roof that would be extended over the top of the seating to protect the people from the summer sun.
All the facts sometimes overshadow the scale of the building. It is amazing just to stand and look at, and no picture really captures it. The same is true of the dome over the Pantheon, which we also visited today. It is most impressive when you think that both these buildings were constructed two thousand years ago.
The day concluded with a very Italian meal – ravioli-like pasta stuffed with meat and in carbonara sauce, a margherita pizza (because we underestimated the amount of pasta we'd need) and gelati. The gelati was very enjoyable, because we each got five different flavours. The flavours were very intense – Keeley's banana tasted like it was fruit, not ice cream, and my yoghurt and berries was divine. It was pretty cheap too at only €2.60.
Unfortunately, I am starting to feel a bit under the weather, possibly from the travelling, so I have to make sure I stay hydrated. Both of us are also feeling very fat, mainly because we're eating so much and by this time of year we're usually well into running/pre-season. We are doing a lot of walking, but I think our subconscious doesn't really think that's good enough. We might get motivated to go running soon, while the weather is nice.
Get what you want at ebay. Get rid of those unwanted christmas presents!
