Today we finally made it to the Writers Museum! After two unsuccessful attempts, we got a day when it was open. There were three rooms, each dedicated to an influential Scottish writer. Although it was a bit dry for Keeley's taste, it was very well set up and brought together the links and differences between the three. The common thread was one of advancement from lowly peasant or farmer to upper class heavyweight, through various means. It was pretty interesting stuff, and it was free after all. Keeley's acceptance of the cold was starting to wear very thin, so while she stayed in the hostel researching on the internet I went for a walk around the New Town and up to Calton Hill, a rocky outcrop overlooking the city. The view was pretty good, although the fog limited the viewing distance. There was a tower on the hill, but admission was a steep £3 for little more than a slightly elevated, 360° platform, so I gave it a miss.
Looking for something to do, we went back to our favourite bar from a couple of days ago, the Brass Monkey, and managed to get a seat to watch Superbad. After a spectacular pork dinner we attended the Hogmanay Dancin' at Grassmarket. There were three stages set up with a Scottish band at one end, highland dancing and "follow the leader" in the middle, and a rather ordinary lineup on the other end including some mediocre tap dancing, some truly terrible cabaret and an over-enthusiastic and very cringeworthy country and western group, at which point we couldn't stand it any more.
Hogmanay is in full swing though, that much is clear. There are people everywhere, including in our hostel. A busload of Aussies and New Zealanders arrived today, and it seems that we are the only other people in the hostel (other than the permanents, who have gone into hiding). These tourists are loud, and not especially bright – one guy came into the kitchen while we were making tea and asked if we were making it for them! Obviously they haven't had much experience with hostels. Keeley thinks we could have made a bucketload by selling it to them for £5 a serve (it only cost us £1.50 each).
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